![]() ![]() Renting a place out that's had a bunch of bandaids instead of actual maintenance could really bite you in the ass.īased on the photo I don't think rust is your problem at all. I'd see if you can find some drain cover big enough to cover the area you'd need to cut the rust out, or call some plumbers/contractors to see what they could do within your budget. I wouldn't trust just caulk to fix that long term. Otherwise, how are you intending to manage your property as a rental? Will you be returning to inspect/handle maintenance or will you be relying on the tenants to handle it? If you go the caulk route and are upfront about the tenant needing to monitor the situation, it may still work.Įdit: just saw the picture. If you're handy and have access to tools, maybe you could find a larger drain cover than you have now and cut a bigger hole in the tub to fit it while eliminating the rusted area? I don't know that anyone is going to do a patch for you that will be satisfactory for you. There are companies that drop another tub directly over the existing, that may be cost effective. If that's your situation, you'll probably need an actual fix then. r/DIY now has a Discord channel! Come chat with us!ĭid you miss the AMA with Patrick DiJusto? Click here to read it!Īll content must be DIY - if you paid for the work or found it posted online it is not DIY. AMA with Travis Larson is over Check it out!.COVID-19 DIY PPE Post is live, connecting medical professionals with DIYers!.Quinn Dunki of Blondihacks answers your questions! Read her insights into machining and cat dentistry here.I would try to remove that clear caulking as best I could. The presence of silicone caulk back there (visible in pic) is distressing because it could interfere with the gray gasket sealing against the back of the tub wall. It is important to understand that the seal between the horn and the back of the tub wall is what is important, to keep any incidental splashing water (or, god forbid, an actual overflow) from leaking in the back, to the floor below. install a new cover plate using a new screw with the same thread as the old threaded post:.discard the original overflow strainer and cover plate.remove the threaded post from the overflow horn.The gray gasket on the overflow horn (visible in pic) is supposed to press and seal against the back of the tub wall, and the white gasket on the overflow strainer is supposed to press (no need to seal the front, it's just a cushion) against the front of the tub wall. What glue should I use to hold the bath tub drain system to the bath tub wall?īy design, this assembly is not supposed to need any glue or caulking. How to join part A, part B to the bath tub drain system behind of the bath tub? This is the best I could do to get bath tub drain system out to the wall of bath tub, while waiting for a solution from you all on which glue to buy. What screw, nut, bolt or other tool to hold part B to part A?Īny suggestion is welcomed! Let me know if you need more photos! Thank you.įurther investigation reveals that there is a bath tub drain system installed in this bath tub, as seen in the image below:.What glue should I use to stick the part A on the hole? This is how I stick part A on the bath tub: The part A is held on the bath tub wall by a glue.Would there be any problem if I left the screw inside the bath tub?.However, by accident, I had pushed the screw into the inner part of bath tub. Take note that the white part of the part A would be glued to the bath tub wall Lastly, based on my best guess & screw type/size here is the back of the part A with screw. Here is the top view of part A with screw When I removed part B, there was a screw at the part A to hold the part B. The cap consists of 2 parts:Part A & B as below I was cleaning the bath tub and I had unscrew a cap from the side of bath tub (where the hole is located) below: ![]()
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